Converting a Sieg X2 mini mill to CNC
For the past month or so I have been busy converting a Micro Mark mini mill to CNC. I decided to take a staged approach and use as much of the original mill as possible. So, rather than using ball screws and nuts like a lot of folks do, I am using the stock X and Y axis screws – but I am modifying the nut by splitting it and adding 2 adjustment screws so I can take up the backlash.
Things are progressing nicely, I started with the Y axis. Here is a movie of it in operation for the first time.
Don’t have Quicktime? View the video on YouTube!
Tim said:
Sep 06, 09 at 12:20 amDo you have any photos of the mods you made to the mill to reduce the backlash without going to ball screws? I have a MicroMark mill as well and would like to ‘tighten it up’ a bit.
Tim
EclecticGuy said:
Sep 06, 09 at 6:53 amTim, I am not sure if I have photos of it but I basically split the brass nut and drilled and tapped for 2 10-32 cap screws. The so called “split nut” modification. This can be done on both the X and Y. There is a bit more information on my “build thread” at the CNC Forum. At some point I hope to have the time to document this! If you still have questions, let me know and I’ll email you with a drawing. Not sure If I can take my mill apart right now to photo the nut since I am in production of a run of fly reels.
cheers,
EG
Walky said:
Sep 29, 09 at 11:58 pmHi
I saw the post about your first CNC on CNCZone, and I’ll be extremely grateful if you could tell me how well did the Igus N slides perform, as I’m thinking on getting some to improve (and actually rebuild) my machine (which I’ll use to make some pieces for the new one, anyway). Right now I’m using some 2 inch v-groove bearings (designed for heavy doors) but those have a horrible, horrible internal play (smaller ones are way more expensive), making it impossible to use a decent stepdown, a pain to mount each axis, and close to impossible to have an exact 90ยบ between axis.
The router I’m using is quite heavy, but I think I can get a smaller/lighter one.
By the way, have you tried the 80mm Igus as a standalone Z axis?, do you think it will be enough?
Here it is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTd1mXw9yH0
(don’t mind about the slow jogging, I’ll get some custom leadscrews/nuts to improve the speed)
Thanks!
EclecticGuy said:
Sep 30, 09 at 7:57 amHey Walky. This Igus N slides performed very well for this router. It did not receive heroic use (before it got dropped on the floor – don’t ask). The Igus glides had very little slop. I really thought they were a good alternative. The low profile was nice. I recommend mounting them upside down to keep stuff from falling in them or enclosing their tops so cruft doesn’t drop in during milling. They don’t perform well with grit in them! I have not tried any of the other Igus products. I ended up going down the mini-mill CNC path.
cheers,
EG
Walky said:
Sep 30, 09 at 1:16 pmThank you very much!
What do you mean by heroic use? I want to use it mostly for MDF but eventually some harder woods (signs and stuff like that) and acrylic (I’m really not interested in milling metals by now). Would it be enough to keep a relatively decent speed and stepdown (say, 5mm deep with a 1/4″ endmill on mdf at 50 IPM) without risking damaging the slides? What speeds did you get?
I would go with the Drylin W if I could, but these are a little too expensive for me (even though they’re still cheap) so I think I’ll stay with the N.
Again, thank you very much for your help, you can’t imagine how grateful I am.
EclecticGuy said:
Sep 30, 09 at 1:24 pmHeroic use – I only had it for about 6 months of occasional use cutting out thin plywood, basswood, and plastic parts for model helicopters and airplanes. I used a small porter cable router (smaller than the 690). It had plenty of power to do what you want. It has been a while so I can’t remember my speeds plus my materials were very easy to mill. I sold the steppers otherwise I could calculate it. I used all-thread (1/4″-20) for the screws so that limited my speed too.
Definitely post or email me a link to any photos or forums you’ve posted to about your CNC router.
Regards,
EG
Walky said:
Nov 05, 09 at 6:05 pmAfter a month of research I decided to go with supported rails with ball bearings (bought them today), since I found a chinese seller on Ebay that sells them really cheap (and chinese shipping is usually cheaper, too). I got a 300/750/1000mm set, I’m very excited about this, I can’t wait for the package to arrive!!. Oh, and some weeks ago I ordered a 36V, 9.7A power supply, it should be here soon I hope.
On the following topic you’ll find a complete log of my CNC story:
http://retrogames.cl/foro/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=6346&st=0&sk=t&sd=a
And here’s another project, in which I used some pieces made with my first machine:
http://retrogames.cl/foro/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=6142
I’m sure I will upload a video of the “finished” mill (I’m sure I’ll never have a final version, since when you think so you stop improving!), it might be a good idea to subscribe to my videos on Youtube if you want to know when that happens
Good luck and thanks again for your help!
Benchtop Milling Machine said:
Feb 20, 10 at 7:09 am[...] Converting a Sieg X2 mini mill to CNC For the past month or so I have been busy converting a Micro Mark mini mill to CNC. I decided to take a staged approach and use as much of the original mill as possible. So, rather than using ball screws and nuts like a lot of folks do, … I saw the post about your first CNC on CNCZone, and I’ll be extremely grateful if you could tell me how well did the Igus N slides perform, as I’m thinking on getting some to improve (and actually rebuild) my machine. [...]
Glenn said:
Mar 04, 10 at 5:29 pmSaw your post on Jan 4th over on the Mach3 forum re wiring the touch probe to a Gecko 540 – don’t have either yet, but these are planned components. Did you find answer & would you be so kind as to share using diagram on page 3
http://www.geckodrive.com/upload/G540%20REV4%20MANUAL.pdf
Thanks
Glenn
EclecticGuy said:
Mar 04, 10 at 5:34 pmHi Glenn, Yes I have a G540 and I did buy the touch probe. The G540 is a great device and I and many others highly recommend it for machines of this size.
I have not hooked my probe up yet! I’ve been so busy finishing my book on reelbuilding and cleaning up a number of projects (they are all done now). This is one of my next projects and I will be sure to post here and on the Mach forum. It should be as simple as using one of the 4 inputs – I plan to use #4 since I have limit switches and home switches to install. It does not matter though. There are 2 wires on the probe. One will go to my motor power supply and the other to the G540 input.
cheers,
EG